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The complete English guide to Mongolia: travel, history and culture

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          Food

          Mongolian food & drink

          Fatty meat in winter, dairy in summer: nomadic eating follows the seasons. Ceremonial dishes, dairy, everyday food and drinks.

          Winter · Autumn

          Red food (meat)

          At –30°C the body needs calories. Animals are slaughtered fat in autumn and the winter store is laid down: mutton, fat, uuts, buuz, banshtai tsai.

          Summer · Spring

          White food (dairy)

          Animals calve and milk is abundant. Airag, yoghurt, cream and aaruul cleanse the body while winter stores of butter and dried curd are made.

          Ceremonial dishes

          Khorkhog

          Mutton cooked with red-hot stones in a sealed pot, the summer camp feast.

          SummerAutumn

          Boodog

          Goat or marmot cooked from the inside with hot stones, in its own skin.

          SummerAutumn

          Uuts (the ceremonial back)

          The whole sheep's back set out as the centrepiece of Tsagaan Sar.

          Winter

          Dairy (tsagaan idee)

          Airag

          Fermented mare's milk, the national drink of the steppe.

          SummerAutumn

          Aaruul

          Sun-dried curd, the nomads' portable food.

          SummerAutumn

          Eezgii

          Milk cooked down until it caramelises into sweet dry grains.

          Summer

          Öröm

          Thick clotted cream skimmed from boiled milk.

          Summer

          Shar tos (clarified butter)

          Butter clarified from cream, stored for winter.

          AutumnWinter

          Everyday food

          Buuz

          Steamed meat dumplings, the heart of Tsagaan Sar and an everyday favourite.

          WinterSpringSummerAutumn

          Khuushuur

          Deep-fried meat pastry, the food of Naadam.

          Summer

          Banshtai tsai

          Small dumplings cooked in salty milk tea, a warming winter dish.

          WinterAutumn

          Drinks

          Shimiin arkhi (milk vodka)

          Distilled from yoghurt, 10 to 15% alcohol.

          SummerAutumn

          Suutei tsai (milk tea)

          Salted milk tea, how every day begins.

          WinterSpringSummerAutumn

          Where to eat real Mongolian food in Ulaanbaatar

          1. Modern Nomads

            Baga toiruu, Sükhbaatar district · National cuisine chain; khorkhog on order.

            KhorkhogBuuzKhuushuurAirag
            Average price35,000 ₮
          2. Mongolians

            Chinggis Avenue · Mongolian dishes with modern plating.

            BuuzBanshtai tsaiSuutei tsai (milk tea)
            Average price30,000 ₮
          3. Khaan Buuz

            Many branches · Fast, cheap, real buuz.

            BuuzKhuushuurSuutei tsai (milk tea)
            Average price12,000 ₮
          4. Altan Gadas

            Zaisan · Ger restaurant; order khorkhog or boodog a day ahead.

            KhorkhogBoodogUuts (the ceremonial back)
            Average price40,000 ₮

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          Mongolia Food & Drink

          Khorkhog, traditional cuisine, milk vodka, aaruul and airag.

          Khorkhog mutton served with blackened hot stones and vegetables

          Khorkhog: Mongolian BBQ

          Khorkhog, Mongolian BBQ: how meat is cooked with hot stones in a sealed churn, why the stones are passed around, how it differs from boodog and where to try it.

          3 min read
          Mongolian table with steamed buuz, khuushuur and bowls of milk tea

          Traditional Mongolian Cuisine

          Traditional Mongolian cuisine explained: red food and white food, buuz, khuushuur, tsuivan, boodog and salty milk tea, plus tips for eating in Mongolia.

          3 min read
          Milk vodka being distilled in a pot and wooden cylinder on a ger stove

          Mongolian Milk Vodka

          Mongolian milk vodka, shimiin arkhi, explained: how herders distil it from fermented milk, its strength, the arz and khorz grades, and drinking etiquette.

          2 min read
          Pieces of white aaruul curd drying on the roof of a ger

          Aaruul: Dried Curds

          Aaruul, Mongolian dried curds: how herders make and sun-dry this hard, tangy dairy snack, its types, how to eat it, and tips on buying and carrying it home.

          3 min read
          Large bowl of white airag being offered to a guest inside a ger

          Airag: Fermented Mare's Milk

          Airag, fermented mare's milk: how Mongolian herders make it in a leather khokhuur, its taste and alcohol level, customs and tips for first-time drinkers.

          3 min read