Yolyn Am

Yolyn Am is a deep, narrow gorge in the Zuun Saikhan range, the eastern of the three 'Beauties' that make up the Gurvan Saikhan mountains. Its name means 'Lammergeier Valley', after the bearded vulture (yol) that nests on its cliffs. In winter a thick ice field builds up in the shaded canyon; by the end of winter it is several metres thick and can stretch for kilometres. It once lasted all year, but now it usually melts away by September.

A mountain refuge in the desert

The gorge lies inside Gobi Gurvan Saikhan National Park, Mongolia's largest national park. The mountains catch more moisture than the plains around them, so the valley floor has a stream, grassy meadows and summer flowers. Birds include the lammergeier, Himalayan and cinereous vultures, Altai snowcock, wallcreeper and Mongolian finch. Argali and Siberian ibex move along the upper slopes, and snow leopards live in the range, although visitors almost never see them. Pikas are common along the path, especially near the ice.

Walking the gorge

From the car park a level path follows the stream into the valley, which narrows until the cliffs are only a few metres apart. Most people walk to the ice and back in two to three hours. Scan the ridges with binoculars for ibex and vultures, and stop at the small national park museum at the gate to see the region's wildlife and plants.

Timing and care

Visit between late May and early July if you want to see the ice; by August little may remain. The gorge is cool and shady even in summer, so bring a warm layer. Ice and wet rock are slippery, and walking on thin ice over running water is unsafe. Do not feed the pikas or pick flowers, and stay on the main path to protect the meadows.