National costume
Deel, hat and sash
Every deel marks a people. The sash carries strength, the hat carries honour.
Origins
The deel is the long, robe-like garment worn by Mongolian men and women for centuries. It is cut to reach below the knee and fans out at the bottom, which makes it practical in the saddle. The front panels wrap across the body rather than meeting in the middle: the left flap overlaps the right and fastens on the right side, with cloth or metal knot buttons at the neck, across the shoulder and under the arm. It has a high collar and long sleeves, often with wide cuffs that can be turned down over the hands in cold weather. Different peoples of Mongolia can be recognised by details of the cut, especially the shape of the opening across the chest: Khalkha deels have a curved edge, for example, while Buryat deels are more angular.
Sash, hat and boots
A deel is traditionally tied with a long sash (büs) of silk or cotton wound several times around the waist. The sash supports the lower back during long hours of riding and work, and the fold of the deel above it forms a deep pocket where men have carried a knife, a snuff bottle or a drinking bowl. Leather belts with large buckles are now also common.
Hats come in many regional and seasonal styles, and some styles once signalled a person's age, marital status or rank. The hat is treated as a personal and respected item, and several customs follow from this: a hat is not placed on the floor or on a seat, it is set down open end down, and you do not touch, borrow or try on someone else's hat.
Traditional boots (gutal) are made of thick leather with upturned toes, which help keep a rider's foot from slipping through the stirrup.
How it works today
Deels are made in different weights for each season: light summer deels, lightly padded spring and autumn versions (terleg), and heavy winter deels lined with sheepskin. Herders in the countryside still wear them every day. In Ulaanbaatar they are worn mostly by older people and on special occasions, above all at Tsagaan Sar and Naadam, when many families dress in new deels. Modern designers also make fitted, contemporary versions in silk and cashmere.
What visitors should know
- Tailors and shops in Ulaanbaatar sell ready-made deels and will make one to measure. A light summer deel is a useful and practical souvenir.
- Many cultural tours and homestays give visitors the chance to try on a deel, which is a good way to see how the wrap and sash work.
- Do not step over a deel, hat or belt left on the floor, and do not put your own hat on the ground.
- Fasten a deel on the right side, the way Mongolians do.